It was 9:00 PM, the night after Halloween. Almost
all the kids in the neighborhood stood there in
the dark, gasping with anticipation every time
a car turned the corner onto our street. I couldn’t
wait until one of those cars was my mom’s, bringing
home our adorable little puppy, named Hobbes.
Almost five years ago Greta a farm dog was born and
just a few months later came to live with a family
that still loves her to this day. The family who
received Greta was my family. I am 11 years old living
in the mountains of Colorado with my two dogs.
I spent the previous summer working and saving for
a puppy so I was able to use my earnings to buy a
Farmdog from Carol, Lexie's breeder. I came up with
half the money and my parents decided that I was
responsible enough to care for a dog so they paid
for the other half and we prepared to bring Lexie
home. I kept a countdown of the days it would be
until Lexie was old enough. I still remember the
day we got to go to Carol's home and see Annika and
five cute, little puppies.
Jera has
been very dedicated to the training of Daphne. Even
before he got Daphne, we talked about dog training.
Jera and his Mother read books together about dog
training. I.e. they read the book "Before and
After Getting Your Puppy" by Ian Dunbar.
Kenlyn's deep love of animals inspired her to look
for an opportunity to help discarded and abandon
pets. After contacting several humane societies where
she hoped she could volunteer and being refused because
she is not yet 18 years old, Kenlyn and her mom,
Susan, were introduced to the Friends of Silicon
Valley Animal Control Authority (SVACA), a support
organization for a local animal shelter.
In this section you will find links to medical articles
written about dog breeding, dental care and disease, transmission,
prevention and control of canine disease, genetic disorders,
pros and cons of early spay and neutering, and canine sports
medicine. details...
Canine Medical Organization Links
In this section you will find links to pet health insurance,
veterinary research foundations and teaching hospitals,
veterinary specialty hospitals, veterinary medical associations
and referral services. details...
Dog Supplies and Resources
In this section you will find links to canine sports equipment,
fun things to buy for interaction with your dogs, pet supplies,
hard to find and unusual items, canine medical supplies,
natural nutrition, performance supplements and treats,
pet memorials, canine event photographers, training services
and information on how to travel with your dogs. details...
Disclaimer: This list of resources
is provided as a convenience. Listing should not
be considered as endorsement of products, business, or
organizations appearing on this list.
Flyball 101 - The Dog's Dog Sport
By
Susan Weber
This 101 article is about a DOG's dog sport - the
one they would choose to play. Let me explain the game and we
will come back to this statement later. ☺
Flyball is basically
a relay race or doggy drag racing. There are two teams. Each
team consists of 4 to 6 dogs. Six dogs can be listed on the team
roster, but only four race at a time. There must be a handler
for each dog running. Each dog (one from each team at a time)
runs down a lane jumping four hurdles evenly spaced along the
way, hits a box at the end which pops out a tennis ball, gets
the tennis ball, and returns over the hurdles on the way back.
The first team to have all four dogs finish correctly wins that
race. Sounds too simple, right? Of course it is!! The word "correctly" implies
that there are rules that must be followed. So, let's break it
down.
First, the set-up and equipment. A flyball lane is at least 85
feet long. There is a start/finish line. The first jump is placed
6 feet from the start/finish line. The other 3 jumps are placed
at 10 foot intervals. There is 15 feet between the last jump
and the flyball box. There must be at least 5 feet behind the
box and a minimum of 29 feet in front of the start/finish line
(commonly called the runback area). Most people prefer more like
100 feet of runback because the dogs are coming back so fast
it is hard for them to stop in a short amount of room. The jumps
are set anywhere from 6" to 14" depending on which venue. In
both though, the jump height for a team is set according to the
height of the shortest dog on the team. So, the two teams running
can be jumping different heights. This is why you usually see
one small dog (commonly referred to as the height dog) on every
team. The quest is to find a dog which will bring the jumps as
low as possible while not impacting the overall speed of the
team. (Think Farmdog!!!!) Last, there is the box and balls. The
boxes are varied and can be made of different materials. There
are certain specifications it has to meet as to width and height,
but the main consideration is that a dog can hit or jump on the
front panel and a ball will shoot out at least two feet. The
ball does not have to be a tennis ball, but it has to bounce.
Now, let's talk about the start. The four dogs that are running
and their people can line up anywhere in the lane in front of
the start/finish line. (The picture on the left shows Mel with
Flora and Tim with Levi as they line up for the start) There
is a set of lights like you would see at a drag race. After the
start dog's handler on each team indicates they are ready, the
judge starts the light sequence. It cycles through 2 or 3 yellow
lights (depending on the equipment being used at that tournament)
followed by a green light. The person can let go of the start
dog at any time, but the dog cannot cross the start/finish line
before the light turns to green. Sound impossible? After a lot
of practice, the person generally knows about how far from the
line to start the dog so they can let go on a specific yellow.
There is usually a tape measure along the lane edge showing the
distance from the line. If the dog does cross the line early,
it is a false start and the race is started over again. Each
team can have one false start per race. If a team has a second
false start, the race continues and the first dog has to run
again at the end after the other three have finished. Because
false starts can add a lot of extra running for the start dog,
that dog has to be one with a lot of stamina. The second dog
cannot cross the start/finish line before some part of the returning
first dog has crossed it. The same holds for the third and fourth
dogs. The ideal is to have the dogs nose-to-nose right at the
line. Again, the person letting the second dog go has to judge
the time and distance at which to let their dog go. This brings
me another point. There are posts on both sides of the start/finish
line in each lane with laser lights in them to detect when each
dog crosses and indicate if the wrong dog crosses first. This
means the dogs have to pass each other in a limited space - the
width of the
lane.
As you are looking down the lane towards the box, people and dogs
line up to the right of the lane getting ready to run and run back
down to the left of the lane calling their dogs back. This teaches
the dogs to move right going down and left (actually their right
again) coming back. You do not want a lane hog (dog that runs down
the center of the lane).
The middle part of the run down and back is the stretch of jumps
or hurdles. This is quite simple. The dog has to go over each
jump in both directions. It doesn't matter if they go over one
twice; they just have to go over all of them. So, say the dog
drops the ball between the first and second jump on the way back.
He leaves the lane to get the ball and re-enters the lane back
at the first jump doing it again. As long as he completes the
rest of the jumps, all is fine. If any jump is not completed,
the dog is "flagged".
This means he has to run again at the end of the line-up.
The
hardest part of the run is probably the box. The dog must "trigger" the
box to spit out the ball. If the dog just leans in and takes
the ball out of the box without triggering it, it is called "stealing" and
the dog is flagged (has to run again at the end of the line-up).
For safety reasons and efficiency reasons, most dogs are taught
to do a swimmers turn on the box. This means they are already
in the act of turning when they jump on the box, getting all
four feet up there, catching the ball near the box, and pushing
off with their back legs for the return. It doesn't matter if
the dog catches it or not, but they have to bring back the ball
which came out of the box - not any extraneous balls that may
be laying around nearby from a previous dog's run (or they are
flagged ☺). (Tilly, shown on the left, is hitting the box, catching
the ball and getting ready to flip around and bush off back down
the lane) The dog must bring the ball all the way back over the
start/finish line or they run again at the end of the line-up.
-- Video 1: Anna
doing a run and a box turn at practice. You can see her turn
in slow motion to get a better idea of what takes place. We haven't
talked about the challenges of two lanes of dogs running. The
dogs have to mind their own business. Dogs cannot leave their
lane to go chase the dog running in the other lane. Are you listening
herding dogs? If a dog crosses into the other lane (unless it
is innocently chasing its own ball which rolled over there and
doesn't get in the other dog's way), the race is stopped for
interference. The win goes to the team that was interfered on.
The judges are very watchful for any signs of aggression on the
interfering dog's part. If it continues to cross, it may be asked
to leave. Most dogs ignore the dog in the other lane, but some
are very competitive. You can see them look over and put on a
burst of speed if the other dog is ahead☺.
(In
the picture on the left Flora heads for the start as the first
team dog approches the finish line. You can see the starting
lights just to the left of Flora, the split times at the end
of the lanes and the boxloaders are placing the balls in the
box for the next dogs. Mel, lower left, holds a Frizbee to lure
Flora back home) The first team with all four dogs completing
the run correctly wins the race. The make-up and rules of a tournament
(heats vs. races, round robins, etc.) will be left for another
article. But, simply there are two parts to flyball. One is the
points earned for a dog. The points are earned based on how fast
each race they ran in was completed. They belong to the dog as
opposed to the team and earn the dog titles. The second part
is the team wins/losses. They determine which team wins the tournament
and apply towards placements in regional and national statistics
and recognition.
Let's talk a little more about all the other people involved
in a race besides the handlers. There is the judge, of course.
His job is to start and end the race and make sure the rules
are applied. At the start/finish line in each lane, there is
a line judge. They watch the lights and make sure there is no
false start or early passes as well as making sure the dog brings
the ball all the way back over the line. Down near the box in
each lane, there is a box judge who makes sure the dog triggers
the box and gets the correct ball. Both the box and line judges
watch the lane to make sure the dog completes all the jumps.
At the box, there is a boxloader who is responsible for loading
a ball into the box before each dog gets there. Each team usually
has a ball shagger who collects all the tennis balls at the end
of each run and makes sure they are occasionally returned to
the boxloader so he never runs out ☺. -- Video 2: Flyball
racing. Two Farmdogs running against eachother. Nellie (start
dog) in the left lane and Hannah (3rd dog to run) in the right
lane.
In
this picture Anna crosses the line before Luke can go down the
lane. A team also has a captain who must decide which of the
six dogs are running in any given race, the order, and give that
information to the line judge. Most teams will also have a pass-caller
who stands at the start/finish line and gives feedback to the
handlers on how close or far their passes are so that they can
adjust.
Unlike most of the other dog sports, flyball is a team sport
which adds a whole new dimension. Not so much for the dogs as
for the people. You have to like and get along with the other
people on your team. The team has to agree on what their goals
are - competitive or just for fun, wins vs. points, how often
to go to tournaments, etc. Disagreement can make practice and
events miserable. The picture on the right , Deb with Solo explains
to Sue with Nellie about back field coriography. Deb was the
Farmdog Family Affair team captain in November 2008. This was
the first time that we were able to put together an all Danish/Swedish
Farmdog Flyball team. We all look forward to doing this again
as an annual event.
Now, finally, let's go back to my opening statement.
Why do I say that flyball is THE sport in a dog's view? Let's
see. They get to run fast, get a ball, and get rewarded when
they get back with food or another fun toy or game of tug. There
are relatively few rules. They don't have to get wet. They not
only get to pull when at the line, but they can bark and bark
as loud and as much as they want to. Really, what's not to like?
Luke Tugs
Hannah Tugs
Target Jumps
Good
Friends Keep Warm
Deb
Races Solo
Cooper
and Anna Dance
Sue
and Deb do the Hokey Pokey
Sue
with Nellie, Deb with Solo, Mel with Hannah, Sally with
Anna
Sue
just started with Nellie and is calling her to run back,
Sally is getting ready to let Anna go. Mel will step in
where Sally is to release Hannah and Tonya and Lego will
finish the race for another Farmdog win.
There are two different flyball venues. Most of this article applies
to NAFA, but the basics and rules are very common between the two.
Check them out: